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Auteur Topic: Polariseren ?  (gelezen 684 keer)
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« Gepost op: Maart 10, 2011, 03:34:13 »

Wat ik me afvroeg moet de dynamo ve 78 Shovel ook gepolariseerd worden ?
Ik heb even gezocht en vondt dit

First, the alternators of 1970 and newer Shovels:

Checking HD Alternator

First thing I'd do is to find a good digital multi-meter, put it on dc volts and test the bat. Should show 12+ volts (13 is perfect), if not check water in the battery, and charge until it does. If this doesn't act right, remove the bat and have it load tested. Once you are absolutely sure that you have a known good battery in there, start the engine and again using dc volts check the output by taking a volt reading direct off the battery terminals while the motor is running in the 2000 rpm range…voltage should be 13.8 to 14+ volts and if it is you are in fat city. When you aren't showing a forward charge and you've cleaned all the terminals and grounds, pull the stator plug out of the front of the case on the primary side (turn the bike off first, don’t check this with the motor running!). Visually inspect that the plug is making good connections, no corroded or burnt pins on the regulator plug or the stator plug. Put your meter on ohms and check from one of the pins on the stator (engine side of the plug) to a good ground….should be no continuity on either pin to ground. Check pin to pin and you can get a reading of .2 to .4 ohms. If you have continuity from pin to ground your stator is grounded and needs to be replaced. If you have "infinity" from pin to pin your stator is opened and needs to be replaced.

If the stator resistance checks are OK, start the motor with the regulator still unplugged. Set the meter to AC across the stator pins (BE CAREFUL, the motor will be moving around/vibrating a bit...don't short anything!!) should read between 19 to 26 volts AC per 1000 rpm of motor speed. Note the readings then TURN OFF THE MOTOR. If your AC voltage output is lower than spec'd, there is a partial short in a winding(s) and again, the stator will need replacing.

Turn your meter to DC volts and check the voltage regulator side of the plug from pin to ground. These pins to ground should be very low voltage if any at all. If you get battery voltage at either pin, replace the voltage regulator.

Now on to the earlier generator type:

D.C. Generators - To determine charging system operation -

1. Battery must be good. (charged)
2. Hook voltmeter to battery (D.C. 20v scale or higher)
3. Start m.c. Operate at 2,000 rpm. With lights on
4. Voltmeter should read 12.8-15 volts D.C. If meter reads less there is a problem...

5. Check all wire connections first (retest if problem found)

6. Remove wires from "A" and "F" terminals of D.C. generator
7. Attach a voltmeter (D.C. 50 volt or higher scale) to the gen. With the red or pos. lead to the "A" terminal and the neg. or black lead to ground.
8. Start the m.c. Operate at 2,000 rpm
9. Connect a jumper wire from the "F" terminal to ground (not for a long time 3- 5 seconds MAX!)
10. Voltmeter should read 20v – 30v D.C. or higher if rpm is up
11. If correct reading was obtained replace or clean voltage regulator. And retest...

12. If the voltmeter needle was pegged backwards (and your leads were attached correctly) the generator is polarized backwards.
13. Polarize the D.C. gen. Correctly this time.

14. To polarize use a 12v battery.
15. Make sure all wires are off the "A" and "F" terminals
16. Hook a jumper wire from bat. Pos. to the "A" terminal
17. MOMENTARILY hook a jumper wire from bat. Neg. to the "F" terminal (all you need to do is make a flash)
18. After polarizing retest generator.
19. If the D.C. gen. Shows little or no charging output the gen. Parts must be checked....

20. With the wires off of the gen. "A" and "F" terminals hook ohm meter to the "A" and "F" terminals reading should be 1-6 ohms if good (if not replace the field coils)
21. Remove armature and using an ohm meter (x1ohm scale) check for shorted fields by attaching ohmmeter red lead to term. "A" or "F" and black lead to ground reading should be infinite if not replace fields.
22. Check armature using an ohm meter (x1 ohm scale)
A. Comutator segment to segment – continuity- or replace
B. Com. To ground – infinite – or replace
C. Growler check – if magnetized (shorted) – replace
D. If comutator out of round is more than .003 or is burned it should be turned on a lathe and segments undercut
23. Check brush length if under .5" or is worn more than 1/3 – ½ of new length replace

Niet nodig voor een 78er begrijp ik dat goed ?
Max 1
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Berichten: 5319

« Antwoord #1 Gepost op: Maart 10, 2011, 09:33:04 »

Niet nodig voor een 78er begrijp ik dat goed ?

Inderdaad niet nodig bij een wisselstroom alternator.
Een gelijkstroom dynamo gebruikt het remanente magnetischme in de metalen kernen van de velden om de stroom de goede richting te geven. Vandaar het polariseren van de velden.
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